#4622

Samurai Spirit

I always wanted to explore Fukushima so I headed north from Tokyo station for a short ride on the Tohoku Shinkansen Toward Koriyama station. It's only about an hour and half. and is a great way to enjoy a half day trip for a little history and an overnight stay at a nice onsen without exhausting yourself. I enjoyed my bento in the spacious seats as I looked forward to my trip.

After getting off at Koriyama station I was greeted by my guide and Gakuto-kun Onpu-chan, Koriyama City's colorful yuru-kyara (laid-back characters), local mascots used for promotion. I boarded our chartered bus on the way to Nisshinkan Samurai school located in Aizu. It was the most prestigious institution of its time for training young samurai in the early 1800’s, the last part of the Edo era during the reign of the Tokugawa shogunate. Children entered the school at 10 years old and they studied both academics as well as physical and mental disciplines. The grounds sit upon a hill surrounded by snow capped mountains and the gorgeous Aizu area. It is quite large, about 26,000 sq. meters, and even has Japan's oldest swimming pool, Suiren-Suiba Ike, and is a great example of Edo-era architecture.

This time, I traveled from Tokyo to Aizu Wakamatsu, home of Nisshinkan, on the Tohoku Shinkansen via Kōriyama Station. However, the YUTTARI(Relaxing) AIZU TOBU FREE PASS issued by Tobu Railway is extremely affordable and convenient.
This ticket allows an Asakusa departure with unlimited travel within the Nikko and Fukushima areas. It's cheaper than the shinkansen, so recommended for those looking for a more affordable ticket option.
https://www.tobu.co.jp/foreign/en/pass/aizu.html

Follow in the footsteps of Samurai

The school turned out some very famous warriors but probably the most famous and tragic characters were the child warriors, Byakkotai. During the Boshin wars, they were a reserve unit made up of teens that were cut off from the rest of the troops during the battle of Tonoguchihara. They retreated to Iimori hill where they watched what they thought was the castle burning. Disheartened, thinking that there families had perished, they tragically committed seppuku, ritual suicide.

At the school we were able to see very realistic life-sized dioramas of the classrooms with students learning the different subjects like astronomy, writing and samurai disciplines.
You can participate in many of the traditional disciplines including tea ceremony, meditation, horseback riding, and Akabeko red cow painting (a local good luck charm) but we chose Japanese archery which was pretty cool. The master showed us a brief ritual and the proper techniques to hold the arrows and bow and how to shoot. Even younger children can participate as long as they are old enough to hold the arrow and bow with one hand the correct way.

Best Ryokan in Fukushima with private bath

I was looking forward to a traditional Japanese meal and a much needed soak at the onsen, so we headed back to Higashiyama onsen area to Harataki Ryokan. When I walked into the spacious lobby I immediately felt the Japanese hospitality and architectural aesthetic. There were lounging areas and a well stocked gift shop with many meibutsu (local famous products) to buy as omiyage (souvenirs) for family and friends. The facilities included, a tea lounge, karaoke box and the general baths for everyone, divided into male and female, which included a rotenburo (outdoor bath) where I could see the waterfall and melt away the stress. But there were also private baths that could be rented!

My room overlooked the river and I could hear the waterfall and was very large with tatami mats and traditional Japanese furniture. Even though there are onsen baths at the ryokan, there was also a private bath with a shower in the room, an added bonus. Other amenities included a mini fridge and a yukata to wear to dinner and the ryokan hot springs.

I put on my yukata and headed down to the restaurant to meet our tour group for dinner. The staff prepared a mix of a set meal with several Japanese delicacies including beef shabu shabu and tempura as well as a complete buffet that included maguro, local soba, vegetables and dessert area, as a compliment. It was clear I would not go hungry tonight! We ordered some sake and talked about our day. After dinner I headed off to the onsen to sit under the stars and listen to the waterfall then it was back to my room where I found my futon and bedding had all been prepared while I dined. I was quickly lulled to sleep by the falls, maybe the sake helped a bit.

In the morning, after a wonderful night’s sleep, I headed down to a wonderful breakfast. Again there was a buffet with western as well as Japanese food, and a prepared assortment of small Japanese dishes. I always love the variety and different flavors of Japanese ryokan and Harataki did not disappoint!

This tour is a great way to get out of the city and truly refresh. If you only have 1 day It is a great way to experience Japanese history, culture and hospitality within a reasonable distance surrounded by beautiful natural beauty that can be enjoyed differently in all seasons.

DeepJapan Editor image

DeepJapan Editor

Japan

DeepJapan Editor's other advice

Spectacles of Saitama: 4 Spots to Feel Saitama's Culture and Nature images

Spectacles of Saitama: 4 Spots to Feel Saitama's Culture and Nature

Located directly northwest of Tokyo, Saitama is often confused with simply being a part of Tokyo, but it’s a city of its own, offering all sorts of exciting locations, attractions and activities. Tod…

Sensoji Temple- A half day history tour images

Sensoji Temple- A half day history tour

I was looking for a great place to experience some Japanese history for a few hours without trekking all the way to Kamakura or Kyoto so I decided to stay in Tokyo and head over to Sensoji Temple, ot…

Nikko to Tokyo - Half the fun is getting there images

Nikko to Tokyo - Half the fun is getting there

I was traveling in Nikko and heading back to Tokyo to Asakusa for some sightseeing and an overnight stay. I decided to take the scenic route and hopped on the SL train out of Nikko Station. Outside t…

Takatsue Winter Wonderland One-night Onsen Trip images

Takatsue Winter Wonderland One-night Onsen Trip

I wanted a quick overnight getaway from Tokyo to experience some nature instead of heading to crowded tourist areas. Takatsue Ski resort in Fukushima is relatively close to Tokyo, only about 170 minu…

Charming transport / traditional village and onsen one-night trip. images

Charming transport / traditional village and onsen one-night trip.

I wanted to see one of the largest castles in eastern Japan so I headed for Tsurugajo castle in Aizu-Wakamatsu City from my ryoukan on the tour bus. The castle was built about 600 years ago and was i…

Go north! Nikko National Park Day 2 images

Go north! Nikko National Park Day 2

I woke up early to the sound of the rushing river below and the view of the snow covered mountain, had some Japanese tea while enjoying the scenery for awhile and then went down for breakfast. I arr…

You might also like

Bizen Osafune Sword Museum images

Bizen Osafune Sword Museum

I studied ancient Greek when I was in college and although fascinating, it was hard to use phrases like, "the donkey pulls my cart" in everyday conversation. Sword making is an ancient tradition in J…

Kenji image

Kenji

Japan's Sengakuji Temple and the 47 Famous Samurai (Part 1) images

Japan's Sengakuji Temple and the 47 Famous Samurai (Part 1)

Have you heard of “Chushingura” or the legacy of the Forty-Seven Ronin?The image of elegant Samurai, a picture of honor and integrity; this is the path of the “Bushi” or warrior. “Bushi-do” literal…

5@example.com image

5@example.com

One of the Most Ancient and Interesting Bridges in Japan images

One of the Most Ancient and Interesting Bridges in Japan

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IeL_cyyKVeMThis is a place steeped in history, pulsing with riveting stories of banished Samurai, castles and the Iwakuni Han. Home to Japan’s naval air force and …

5@example.com image

5@example.com

If you come to Japan, let's watch a movie! images

If you come to Japan, let's watch a movie!

In Japan, there are a lot of movies that are not screened overseas.Overseas, Japan's movie hero is samurai and ninja?In Japan until now, more than a ninja and samuraiUnique hero or heroine …

asteka image

asteka

What is the samurai spirit? :Samurai Spirit Tourism in Fukushima Prefecture images

What is the samurai spirit? :Samurai Spirit Tourism in Fukushima Prefecture

My quest was simple, escape the incessant noise and constant attention grabbing craziness that is life in the modern world and especially Tokyo. Don’t get me wrong I love living in Tokyo. It has been…

DeepJapan Editor image

DeepJapan Editor

Samurai Spirit in Fukushima images

Samurai Spirit in Fukushima

I always wanted to explore Fukushima so I headed north from Tokyo station for a short ride on the Tohoku Shinkansen Toward Koriyama station. It's only about an hour and half. and is a great way to en…

DeepJapan image

DeepJapan